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博碩士論文 etd-0523121-125135 詳細資訊
Title page for etd-0523121-125135
論文名稱
Title
科技促成服裝快速自動製版之商業模式創新
Innovative Business Model: A Study of IT-enabled Clothing Pattern Manufacturing
系所名稱
Department
畢業學年期
Year, semester
語文別
Language
學位類別
Degree
頁數
Number of pages
90
研究生
Author
指導教授
Advisor
召集委員
Convenor
口試委員
Advisory Committee
口試日期
Date of Exam
2021-04-27
繳交日期
Date of Submission
2021-06-23
關鍵字
Keywords
自動製版、自動打版、服裝版型、人工智慧、服裝打版系統、創新商業模式
Automatic Pattern Making, Clothing Pattern Type, Artificial Intelligence, Clothing Pattern Making System, Innovative Business Model
統計
Statistics
本論文已被瀏覽 446 次,被下載 134
The thesis/dissertation has been browsed 446 times, has been downloaded 134 times.
中文摘要
位居全球第二產值的服裝產業,在科技創新運用上雖領先其他傳統產業,但是,除了布料檢測、生產線上部分縫製、3D模擬走秀、設計師預測市場訊息、打版師的電腦打版外,相對於其在全球產值的經濟規模而言相對薄弱。
版型開發是商品開發部重中之重的部門,對於其人才上的斷層、開發時間的高成本的克服,多年來「自動打版系統」不論業界、學界都不餘遺力在專研,但是,多數以業界的技術,學界的理論為出發點,鮮少以打版師的專業知識、技巧為依據,故而三十多年來僅能是基本款或模組化自動打版,對於流行多變的服裝版型而言,仍無法實現流行款式自動打版的系統。
本論文以設計科學研究法為研究方法,解決打一個服裝版1.5天高時間成本的壓力,透過AI學習,將1.5天降為15分鐘的「自動打版系統」
「自動打版系統」的解決方案,首先將服裝版型開發八個流程中,最重要的前三流程,分三個階段來執行:
第一階段:結構化及定義各個關鍵數值─將部位、尺寸、原型版、款式版片、機械圖線條的資訊轉化成電腦可判讀之格式。
第二階段:原型的自動展開─使每一設計款的款式版,在最符合身形的結構下呈現,快速輸出最符合品牌定位及客製化的原型。
第三階段:設計師於原型版上完成設計圖─設計師2D繪出新款設計機械圖,經AI演算,落實一版原需時1.5天,降至15分鐘之「自動打版系統」。
本研究以設計師、打版師的思維邏輯及專業知識為出發點,輔以非常成熟之工程師技術,所以,「自動打版系統」的成功是指日可待的。
Abstract
The apparel industry, which ranks second in the world in terms of output value, is ahead of other traditional industries in the use of technological innovation. But in addition to fabric testing, partial sewing on the production line, 3D simulation catwalks, market forecasting, and computer patterning, it’s economic scale in global output value is Relatively weak.
Pattern development is the most important aspect in product development. To overcome issues such as gaps in talents and the time consuming process of pattern development, both industry and academia developers to spare no effort in researching and improving the "Automatic Pattern Making System". However, most of the research is based on the technology of the industry and the theory of the academia, the professional knowledge and skills of the pattern maker is seldom taken in to account. Therefore, for more than 30 years, the "Automatic Pattern Making System" has only been a able to perform basic model or modular automatic patterning. In terms of changing clothing patterns, it is still impossible for this system to create the new trends of the ever changing fashion world.
This thesis adapts the design scientific research method as research method to solve the pressure and the high cost of time. Through AI learning, the "Automatic Pattern Making System" can reduce the required 1.5 days per pattern to 15 minutes.
The solution of the "Automatic Pattern Making System" is to isolate the first 3 most definitive stages in the 8 stage pattern making process, and execute them separately:
Stage 1: Structure and define each key value. Transform the information of body parts, sizes, prototypes, styles, and mechanical drawing lines into a format that can be interpreted by a computer.
Stage 2: The automatic development of the prototypes. Match each style version of each design to presented in a structure that best fits the body shape, customize prototypes for individual brands and achieve quick output.
Stage 3: Designers complete the design drawing using the prototype. Designers design the 2D mechanical drawing. After AI calculations using the "Automatic Pattern Making System". Achieving the reduced time for producing each pattern from 1.5 days to 15 minutes.
This research is based on the logic and professional knowledge of the designer and pattern maker, supplemented by mature engineering technology, so the success of the "Automatic Pattern Making System" is just around the corner.
目次 Table of Contents
論文審定書 i
誌謝 ii
摘要 iv
Abstract vi
圖目錄 x
表目錄 xiii
第一章 緒論 1
第一節 研究背景與動機: 1
第二節 研究目的與範圍 3
第二章 文獻探討 4
第一節 產業現狀 4
一、 冗長高成本的開發部流程: 4
二、 高成本的備量生產: 10
三、 無法滿足的客製化的需求: 11
第二節 業界相關案例 13
一、 目前用於3D自動打版系統的有: 14
二、 用2D自動打版系統的: 27
第三節 學界相關範例: 32
一、 國外研究範例: 32
二、 國內研究範例 34
第四節 小結 35
第三章 研究方法 36
第一節 設計科學研究法 36
第二節 研究流程與步驟 37
第四章 設計與發展解決方案 38
一、 各部位名稱定義與部位尺寸: 42
二、 原型各部位名稱: 43
三、 各品類版型庫版片定義: 45
四、 各品類機械圖線條定義: 51
一、 將部位尺寸與原型版線條做連結定義。 56
二、 將機械圖稿上的線條名稱與各品類款式版版片上的線條做連結定義。 56
第五章 展示與評估解決方案 60
第六章 討論與結論 72
第一節 摘要成果 72
第二節 學術貢獻 73
第三節 實務貢獻 73
第七章 參考文獻 74

參考文獻 References
一、英文部分
Kang TJ, Kim SM., “Optimized Garment Pattern Generation Based on Three-dimensional Anthropometric Measurement,” International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 12, No. 4, pp. 240-254, 2000.
Kang TJ, Kim SM., “Garment Pattern From Body Scan Data,” Computer-Aided Design Volume: 35, Issue: 7, pp. 611-618, June 2003.
Sul, I. H. and T. J. Kang, Interactive Garment Pattern Design Using Virtual Scissoring Method International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18(1), p31-42, 2006.
Zhang D, Yuen MMF., “Cloth Simulation Using Multilevel Meshes,” Computers and Graphics, Volume: 25, Issue: 3, pp. 383-389, June 2001.
Wang CCL., Y. Wang, Yuen MMF, Feature based 3D garment design through 2D sketches, Comput. Aided Des. 35, pp. 659-672, 2002.
Wang CCL, Chang TKK, Yuen MMF., “From Laser-scanned Data to Feature Human Model: A System Based on Fuzzy Logic Concept,“ Computer-Aided Design, Volume: 35, Issue: 3, pp. 241-253, March 2003a.
Wang CCL, Wang Y, Yuen MMF., “Feature Based 3D Garment Design Through 2D Sketches,” Computer-Aided Design, Vol. 35, pp. 659-672, 2003b.
Wang CCL, Wang Y, Tang K, Yuen MMF., “Reduce the Stretch in Surface Flattening by Finding Cutting Paths to the Surface Boundary,” Computer-Aided Design Volume: 36, Issue: 8, pp. 665-677, July 2004.
二、中文部分
WTO,2020年世界貿易統計評論,2020。
BOF時尚商業評論、麥肯錫顧問公司(Mickinsey&Company),全球時尚業態報告(The State of Fashion 2018),2018。
廖振凱,服飾設計自動化─三維服裝設計與編修,2002。
楊智凱,電腦輔助立體服裝之二維展開-非可曲面之攤平與應用,2002。
陳建誠,服飾自動化-三維服裝設計與裁剪,2003。
丁瑜,服裝設計自動化-自動版型的產生,2004。
施素筠,(日本)文化服裝學院女子文化大學,文化服裝講座─婦人服編(2),文化服裝講座─婦人服編(II),五版,台北:大陸書店,1984。
CLO3D Modelis 官方網站,https://www.clo3d.com/,﹝Retrieved 2021/4﹞
Style 3D 官方網站,https://www.style3d.com/public/login/index,﹝Retrieved 2021/4﹞
Marrelous 3D官方網站,https://www.marvelousdesigner.com/,﹝Retrieved 2021/4﹞
Tailornova 官方網站,https://tailornova.com/,﹝Retrieved 2021/3﹞
富怡2D自動打版系統 官方網站,https://www.richforever.cn/,﹝Retrieved 2021/3﹞
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